Gelati Dream

 Five years ago I was introduced to the fantasy land of gelato known as "Gelati Aloha". The peach coloured building set back from the road in Mirabella, a tiny town some 1.5 hours from the Amalfi Coast, seemed like a mirage in the middle of nowhere. The front courtyard, furnished with small tables and chairs, invites customers to sit and savour their sweet purchase. Inside, the sparkling clean and spacious store features a curvaceous counter displaying no less than 60 mouth watering flavours of artisan gelato. One half consists of fruit selections like mandarine, indian fig, kiwi, raspberry, lichee, and tangy lemon while the other contains creamy, milk based options with intersting combinations such as    Hazlenut, liquorice, rum baba, kinder surprise, chestnut and creme caramel. In the right corner stands a large fridge displaying a wide variety of fruits that have been hulled and refilled with gelato made from the pulp. Bite size strawberries, dates, walnuts, figs and lemons are filled with their icy gelato. All of this is the result of the passion and dreams of founder, Generoso Losanno.

Generoso's childhood involved a simple family life in Mirabella. A dreamy child who had little interest and joy in attending school, he trained as a mechanic and commenced work in a factory. As time passed he set about gathering information on how things worked, how the business was run, how things operated. His accrued knowledge fueled his passion and dream to start his own gelato business. Driven by this vision, he acquired a broken table-top ice cream churning machine and worked diligently in his spare time to return it to working order. Once up and running, he then labored for 72 hours non-stop to produce enough gelato to launch his new gelato store. Aiming to launch on Easter weekend some 25 years ago, Generoso produced enough gelato to give the town's people free samples of the product he believed was the best ever made. Impressing the crowds, his business grew and his gelato store thrived. With a strong will and determined drive his business grew and grew, catering to the restaurant and hotel sector. From its humble beginnings to its present day his journey has always been forward. Today, he sells 1.5 million kilograms of gelato annually across Italy, into London and now the US. 

We were lucky to meet Generoso through a private wine tour guide who I asked to arrange a gelato making demonstration for us. Before I knew it, we were sitting at a table with the owner of the business. Filling in time before his arrival, we treated ourselves to a gelato of three flavors in fresh waffle cones. As usual, the fresh ingredients shone through  and the smooth texture was sublime. When Generoso arrived for our meeting, he sat at our table and was immediately served an impressive sized bowl of creamy flavoured gelato. Realizing he couldn't speak English, I tentatively began asking him questions in Italian about the ingredients he worked with. Two questions in, I was struck by the awkward silence that followed. He seemed entranced by the bowl in front of him. Only looking forward, he spooned the ice cream slowly and methodically into his mouth, tilting his head back slightly after each mouthful, as if in paradise. I was a bit perplexed at first, wondering if I was simply being a nuisance or perhaps not phrasing my questions correctly. He muttered a few short answers then stood up and left the table. Our Italian guide assured us that he was extremely impressed by the content of my questions and was just arranging some more gelato for us to sample. He returned to the table with an air of happiness and soon an enormous tray of gelato-filled cups arrived in numerous flavors. He insisted we try each one and joyfully watched us as he shared his story. He revealed he ate four gelatos a day and treasured each one, quite remarkable given his lean build. 

Gelato is and always has been his passion. Sourcing high quality, local ingredients (wherever possible) has always been a priority. Experimenting and innovating new flavours and product lines has also been a key ongoing commitment. The use of vegetables like carrot, celery and cucumber has featured in his product lines as has nuts of many varieties. He explains his key ingredients are fruit, milk and loads of passion.

Taken by our genuine fascination in his product, innovations and story he took us under his wing and lead us behind the scenes of his nearby factory and further afield to his office and distribution centre. There he treated us to nutella brioche in his "happy corner" of the well-stocked staff room (like we needed more 'treating') and later donned a ski jacket before ducking into a freezing cool room to fetch us a sample of his boxed product ready to be shipped off-shore. The three hour experience culminated in his private office. A black leather chair was positioned behind a humble glass desk. Walls were adorned with awards, certificates and photos (including a framed photo of Generoso and the Pope sitting alongside a father's day painting from his child). Generoso wanted to emphasise what a 'normal' and humble family-loving person he was. He invited us to his family home for lunch for the next time we visited. 

Seeming not to want the evening to end, he began serenading us with traditional Italian tunes while strumming his guitar that was a permanent fixture against his office wall. Piling our arms full of boxed treats it was time for our visit to end and farewells to be given to a man we'd only just met but who now felt like a friend. 

Generoso is a wonderful, young hearted and passionate man unafraid of hard work and unflinching in his vision to grow his gelato empire. He truly is an inspiration and Italy should feel proud. 

Most Amazing Walks on the Amalfi Coast

MOST ADVENTUROUS

Valle Delle Ferriere Upper Trail

Starting with a long flight up limestone stairs from the historic village of Minuta, the path traverses the cliff edge through pine forest, ferns, chestnut trees and grasslands. Up to 4 streams need to be crossed with rainfall dictating the width, and sometimes even the presence, of streams. Waterfalls cascade through crevices and rocks need to be clambered over. The 4 hour trek undulates frequently but is not too strenuous. Throughout the journey you are gifted wonderful views over the valleys and above Ravello, Amalfi and Pogerola. Encounters with reptiles especially tiny lizards are frequent and you may even pass by herds of goats or mules with their accompanying dogs. A refreshment stop at the bar overlooking the sea while chatting to the elderly owner may have him switching on romantic Italian tunes while you sip your coffee. The final descent into Amalfi soon has you back mingling with the crowds.

BEST VIEWS

Sentiero degli Dei, Path of the Gods

This is one of the most well trodden hikes on the Amalfi Coast. It's no wonder, the views over the sea showcase the Amalfi Coastline in all its splendour. The panorama stretches to the Island of Capri and over the coastal villages of Furore, Praiano and finally, the gorgeous and colourful Positano. Commencing high in the mountains in the town of Bomerano, the dirt and rocky path provides a 3 hour journey, traversing the valleys amongst diverse forest. Often the track skirts the tree tops and weaves up and over rock boulders. Following the red and white markers keeps walkers on track while tables and chairs are positioned at strategic positions along the way, inviting you to prolong the enjoyment. Once the town of Nocelle is reached, an unforgiving 1800 steps winding steeply to the coastal road just outside of Positano will have your knees vibrating long after the walk is done. Finishing with a 10 minute roadside walk into the town centre, a rewarding lemon granita from the street stall, followed by a relaxing shop, rounds off a perfect day!

MOST TRANQUIL

Valle Dei Mulini

The overcrowded streets of Amalfi can soon be left behind with this 2 hour walk into the historic and peaceful Valley of the Mills. In the days of Amalfi's thriving paper making industry, the stream beds were dotted with mills that used the powerful flowing waters of the river from the surrounding mountains. A combination of massive floods destroying many of the mills and the paper industry collapsing into the hands of China lead to the demise of the industry. However, many of the remains of mills are left untouched with trees and vines simply growing through and over them. The walk commences with a climb up mule stairs behind the houses of Amalfi and into the valley. The lower slopes and valley floor are covered with lemon farms and a diverse range of fruit and vegetable plots. The green of the lemon trees is contrasted by the browns, greys and whites of the soaring limestone cliffs. You pass by strong men lugging crates of lemons on their heads at harvest time, or mules and goats on their daily circuits. You climb continuously upwards but not too steeply, about 300m in altitude. The path transforms into a mixture of dirt, sand and rock as it reaches the stream. Immediately you are surrounded by an array of shady trees and the cold spring waters cools the air, even on the hottest of days. Soon small rapids and powerful waterfalls are passed. The roaring waterfalls, flowing streams and distant rooster are your only sounds. The journey into the point of the valley takes you to riverside beds with crystal clear waters and rocks to rest on. The return journey is even more tranquil. All your effort is done as you descend slowly back to bustling Amalfi.

BEST LOOK OUT POINT

Torre Dello Zirro

If you glance up from the waterfront to the hills above Amalfi an ancient circular watchtower stands out on the rocky ridge. There are many such towers along the coast, constructed to keep watch of the coastline for approaching enemies. As legend has it, after the Duke of Amalfi died, his wife was accused of having an affair and the Duke's brothers locked her and her children away inside the tower where they were later murdered. Local residents view the tower with shame and a little fear and rarely visit it. However, the belvedere above the tower provides spectacular views literally above Atrani on one side, and Amalfi on the other. In the late afternoon sunlight, the water sparkles with a deep turquoise contrasting against the white and terracotta cluster of buildings that make up the two villages. The walk can be done as either an extension of the Ravello to Amalfi walk, or a diversion from the Valley of the Mills up to Pontone and then Torre Dello Zirro. From Pontone it is about a one hour return trip firstly through the Borgo of Pontone and then up a steep zig zag of steps before arriving at the alpine covered out-crop. From here, 4 pathways take you to different levels with various views, but the formal view point is from the second lowest path. I often think that this would be the perfect place for a proposal with the stunning and romantic views over the sea.

The return route presents three options. The first option is to take the 25min descent on steep stairs to Amalfi while the second alternative is to return back through the Valley of the Mills (1.5 hours). The third option is to head down a more rickety set of stairs towards Atrani through the Valle delle Dragone. This is a pretty route showing a different side of Atrani and will see you back in the rabbit warren streets of Atrani in 1.5 hours and Amalfi in 2 hours. 

BEST JOURNEY/ MOST HISTORIC

Ravello to Amalfi

Ravello is a peaceful town high above the coastline above Minori, Atrani and Amalfi with spectacular far-reaching views beyond Salerno and across the valleys. It's Roman gardens of Villa Cimbrone with its white statue-lined belvedere are a must-do photo opportunity. Many of the pathways between Ravello and the coastal villages require steep knee grinding stair ascents or descents. However, a far more interesting passage takes you around the valley through the most ancient Amalfi Coast town of Scala and then down winding pathways to Minuta, Pontone and then the spectacular Valley of the Mills. This 3-4 hour trek will see you walking past the ruins of ancient ceramic kilns, into and out of a valley over a river bed, through and passed animal filled farms, through ancient villages, down the longest flight of stairs on the Amalfi coast, through town piazzas with spring water fountains and finally along the shady and picturesque river, with its remains of iron and paper mills, to Amalfi.

Amalfi Lemons

There's no sight of sour faces here in Amalfi. The lemons organically grown in surrounding terraces in volcanic soil are sweet enough to eat whole, skin included. Known broadly as 'limone costa d'Amalfi IGP' or Almalfi lemons with geographic protection meaning they only grow in this form on the Amalfi coast, these lemons provide Amalfi with an unique identity. The main streets of all Amalfi Coast towns are spilling with lemon products from candles to soaps, from limoncello to candies, from cakes to granita to overflowing crates of the fruit itself; they appear everywhere. Looking upwards from the sea towards the cliffs that line the coast, terraces abundant with olive trees, grape vines, fruits, vegetables and lemons fill every square meter. A walk along any of the ancient mule paths or steep stairways will have you walking alongside lemon groves and often ducking underneath overhanging lemon 'vines'. 

A most unique method of cultivating the Amalfi coast lemon in the early 1900s was to train the young plant to grow first vertically up a pole made from local chestnut trees and then crawl horizontally over a wooden trellis. This unique pattern of growth alters the ecosystem within and around the plant. With greater air ventilation, more sun exposure and less humidity, the fruit flourishes and is capable of growing extremely large. The lemons also have ICEA Biologico certification meaning they are certified as an ethical and environmentally friendly product that is also organic and chemical free. 

The main types of Amalfi lemons grown today are the Sfusato Amalfitano which has an important culinary role in sweets such as gelato, granita and cakes. The juice is used as fruit juice (spremute di limone) but the flesh, peel, seeds and leaves are also utilised in various products. The digestivo, limoncello, is also produced from the peel only and served ice cold at the end of meals to aid digestion. The lemons are also used therapeutically as the high Vitamin C and antioxidant qualities, as well as essential oils, is said to boost immunity and also aid in the treatment of skin issues such as acne. 

Organic fertilisation is used but solely from goat or rabbit excrement rather than cow or horse fertiliser once a year. We visited Costieragrumi which was established in the 1927 in Minori by the De Riso family. Carlo De Riso represents the third generation of the family business which is affiliated with the Consortium for the Promotion of the Limone Costa d'Amalfi, an institution constituted with the aim of promoting and safeguarding the ongoing production of the fruit. With a main focus on Sfusato Amalfitano lemon production, their are 3 main fruit sizes including Limone Costa d'Amalfi I.G.P. (small size), Sfusato Amalfitano (medium size), and Citrus Medical (large size). 

Costieragrumi processes around 1,000,000 kg per year from 350 small lemon producers surrounding Amalfi and Minori distributing them throughout Italy as well as Germany, France and the UK. The large crates of lemons, containing up to 67kg of fruit, are carted one by one on the heads of sturdy men sometimes down thousands of steps. Mules are used for heavier crates. 

The Costieragrumi Lemon Tour de Riso lead by Massimo and Sara takes small groups behind the scenes of this unique lemon production. Visiting a working lemon farm sprawled over multiple terraces on the steep hills high above Amalfi in the village of Minuta, you are lead underneath and through level after level of hanging lemons learning how they are grown, cared for, fertilised and harvested. Rabbits are kept on the farm and play a crucial role in lemon tree fertilisation. The high level of manual labour involved in the lemon cultivation and the lack of machines and other tools highlights the cost involved in production and the difficulty of life for growers. After the farm visit, a tasting itinerary in Pontone's piazza includes Sfusato Amalfitano salad consisting of small slices of sfusato amalfitano, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and salt; Babà, a Naples speciality cake usually soaked in Rum, instead are soaked in Limoncello; and Dolce D'Amalfi, a moist cake made with vanilla and lemon zest. The tour continues on to visit the Costieragrumi factory where Carlo de Riso welcomes guests warmly and shows how lemons are processed for various products or sorted ready for shipping. A demonstration of how limoncello is made is also presented. A relaxing and delicious way to finish this tour is with a lemon themed lunch on the terrace overlooking a private and tranquil cove between Amalfi and Minori.

More information: www.lemontourderiso.com; email Massimo: booking@lemontourderiso.com

Valle delle Ferriere -upper

This has to be one of the most beautiful and enjoyable walks from Amalfi. Taking around 3.5-4hours, if starting from Minuta the path is largely a down hill journey (after an initial 10min stair climb). Hiking shoes are necessary. Since the path is quite high, be aware that on cloudy days your view may be obscured. Choose a clear day for optimal views. Streams need to be crossed at least three times so avoid tackling this walk during or straight after heavy rains. The pathway does become narrow with sheer drops on a few occasions so walkers need to be sure footed and confident with heights. You can commence the walk from Amalfi but be aware that if you choose this option you wil be tackling 1-1.5hours of additional thigh blasting stairs at the start of the walk to reach Minuta. A friend and I took up this challenge last year and I think after refreshing ourselves with a mojito icy pole toward the end of the walk (yes, really, you can just grab these from the ice cream fridge just about everywhere in Italy) we became a bit delirious by the end, mixing up our words. I actually recall telling her I had seen "hules and snails" on this track before, rather than 'mules and snakes'! That had us doubled over in uncontrollable laughter. So perhaps, take the car to Minuta option. 

From the hairpin bend and car park of Minuta take the stairs heading steeply up the valley to the right. These typical limestone stairs of Amalfi have your thighs burning and your chest heaving but spare a thought for the old ladies carrying shopping bags up these stairs on a daily basis. As they tell me, "piano piano", which means slowly, slowly. At the junction, turn left towards the sea. This pathway now traverses the hillside firstly between houses and then into alpine forest to a view point known as Bosco Grande. Along this section of pathway you will enjoy spectacular views firstly over Ravello, Minori, Maiori and towards Salerno and then as you head further west views over Atrani and Amalfi await. Above you are the cliff tops of lime stone and around you is alpine and chestnut forest. 

The path transcends in an arc as you head further into the valley then descends slightly as you arrive at a lovely running stream with several cascading waterfalls. You are able to walk along its tranquil banks for a little way and this is also a fantastic picnic or refreshment spot. 

The path is not clear at this point so look carefully to spot the red and white markings. Cross the stream on rocks and head left along the rock face following the stream until you reach the pathway that traverses the hillside curving to the right. Watch out continually for the little red and white painted signs. They can be tricky to spot at times. After a second stream crossing you reach a junction indicating 2 CAI pathways. Both eventually meet up at a later point but the better path is the one to the right that climbs uphill (number 25). Continue along the path further until you reach another fork. Take the lower path alongside the fence and continue as it undulates toward  Pogerola. More chestnut and walnut trees can be found in this section and you'll also enjoy views back across to Minuta and Pontone and down to Amalfi along the path and also at a couple of lookout points on your left. In October, you can eat the walnuts and fresh chestnuts straight from the trees.

Soon you'll have views above the rooftops of Pogerola as you head onwards. Continue passed the restaurants to the left (very good) to the lookout point of Pogerola. There's a cliff side bar to your right where you can enjoy a good coffee and/or a lemon granita while taking in the view of the sea. There's also a restroom here but it's always good manners to purchase something before using cafe restrooms. 

To continue on to Amalfi, retrace your steps toward the restaurant where there's a set of stairs leading down to your right. Follow these as they wind their way for 30minutes down to Amalfi.

La Via Francigena

Since arriving in Tuscany this year I noticed a recurring sign along the roadside signalling la via Francigena. Knowing very little about it, I soon learnt it is an ancient pathway historically known to stretch from France to the Vatican in Rome. However, there are also some accounts that the pathway commences in Cantebury, England.

The 800km route was used as a communication route and was later frequented by pilgrims for a religious passage through the country to Rome. Consequently, along the way there are many sanctuaries, shelters and places for rest and food. Now, pilgrims (pelligrini), hikers, mountain bikers and motorists follow sections (or 'tappa' in Italian) of the pathway for a range of purposes, from traditional religious reasons to physical challenge motives. Either way, the pathway provides a wonderful way to see, touch and feel history and nature combined.

Finding myself based in the amazing medieval village of San Gimignano for 4 days, I decided to complete 3 stages of the pathway. Amounting to close to 70km, and sending me from Gambassi Terme (15km north of San Gimignano) to Siena, this would prove to be an unforgettable experience.

 

The pathway transported me along vineyards, down dirt roads and bush tracks, through farmyards and passed monestries and churches and even along main roads to reach the amazing hilltop villages of San Gimignano, Monteriggioni and Siena.

Tappa 9 in Toscana: Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano

My notes simply advised me to commence the walk from Chiesa Cristo Re, but after being driven to the town centre and seeing several church spires I had no idea in which direction to head. After a few small circles I approached an elderly lady walking along the street. She seemed local but after a few loud "'scusi Signora"  she seemed to ignore me. Finally, upon almost meeting her eye to rye she stopped and very kindly explained tgat the church I needed was down the hill heading out of town and on the left. The church itself was quite modern and obviously not get main town church but directly opposite the signs indicating the Via Francigena were very evident. The via Francigena signage ranges from large brown street signs with white writing pointing in the required direction to markers that resemble mini tombstones with VF painted on them along the side of bush paths and little painted images of pilgrims painted in black on a white background and even red and also white stickers with Via Francigena printed on them. With all of this, it's relatively easy to keep on track but you do need to stay focused so as not to miss a marker. If you go much longer than f5-10 minutes without seeing a sign you may need to back-track. 

The first third of this segment of the walk is along dirt roads that seem to be dominated by Chianti wineries, beautiful Tuscan villas offering wine and food tastings positioned between fields of grape vines and sloping valleys being prepared for harvest. You could easily prolong the journey by stopping to enjoy the hospitality at these wineries. 

The middle third leads through a dirt track up and down hills and amongst fields filled with wild flowers and the pungent smells of animals in adjoining farms. This section also provided wonderful distant views of the hilltop towers of San Gimignano and took me past monestries where I heard nuns chanting and saw them pacing back and forth in ancient buildings. 

The last third involved walking up over a mountainous bush path literally through private country homes and along the roadside into the outskirts of San Gimignano. The last uphill climb to the village walls lead into the stunning medieval town centre which provides a rewarding end to the 3 hour stage. 

San Gimignano is nothing but breathtaking. Positioned on a hilltop with views over sweeping valleys that resemble a Tuscan postcard, the medieval town is largely unchanged from its 11th Century existence. Dramatically effected by the plague in the 1500s, the population was reduced to near non existence. Although many of the original towers (constructed as a show of power by important families of the time) crumbled or were destroyed in earlier years, the remaining buildings and towers as we see them today display the uniform medieval style. Don't miss a visit to Dondoli Gelateria for the world's best gelato and a porchetta panino washed down with a glass of Chianti or Vernaccia wine.

Tappa 10 in Toscana: San Gimignano to Monteriggioni

The next stage of the route connects the two medieval villages of San Gimignano and Monteriggioni. This was my favourite section of the walk as it weaves through such a diversity of landscapes down roads, dirt pathways, through farms, between vineyards and olive groves, along river banks, passed monestries, churches and castles to arrive at the lesser known Monteriggioni, a medieval town resembling a crown upon a hill top. This stage is long, amounting to around 30km and taking close to 7 hours so it's somewhat of a feat. Although there are some opportunities for filling water bottles at towns or Fontana (taps) along the way, these can be easily missed so it's wise to carry a good supply of water and some snacks for energy. 

The path scrapes the edge of Colle Val d'Elsa, a city on 3 levels including an ancient borgo, a castle and the more modern city on the lower plain. You can divert to visit the ancient buildings, churches and castle if time permits. Nevertheless, it is a most picturesque and unique city. 

An important stop only 2km from Montiriggioni is at Abbadia a Isola. Originating from the Lombards in 1001 with a 12th century church. 

The final climb to the hilltop village of Montiriggioni is steep and leads to one of the town's main gates. The tiny village has the feel of a medieval Hollywood movie set. There are lovely cafés and artisan stores lining the streets and within the main piazza. It's also possible to walk the walls of the ancient castle at a small cost. 

Tappa 11 in Toscana: Monteriggioni to Siena

This section of the Via Francigena involves 20km of mildly undulating pathway leading from Monteriggioni to the beautiful city of Siena. The journey takes 4hours with more road walking than the previous two stages. 

The first half of the route is most picturesque with views back over Monteriggioni and passed castles and historical villas. If possible, extra time to explore the castles, villas and monestries should be added to the journey to enrich the pilgrimage experience. 

The last third of the route involves considerable road walking which, to me, is not as enjoyable. There is quite a climb into Siena but the climax of walking through Siena's gates and along the beautiful streets into Piazza del Campo makes the experience totally worthwhile. 

Some very useful resources for information on each of the stages, including places to stay, visit and eat are:

Website:

http://www.viefrancigene.org/en/

Book:

D'Atti M; and Cinti F, Guida Alla Via Fancigena, 5th edition, Terre di Mezzo Editore, 2014