A Walk in Ancient Verona

Verona, with its proximity to Austria, was often seen as the gateway to Italy and therefore held major interest as a city worth acquiring. Its colourful history tells a long tale of the many conflicts and changes in governance, ownership and power. The city's bridges, forts, towers and walls all combine as evidence of the lengths that were taken to protect Verona. In World War II, it was one of the most bombed cities, destroying most of the bridges that cross the mighty Adige. Still today, there remains the walls that contained the ancient city. The walls around the city do not form a complete ring but instead were constructed in parts by the Romans, the Venetians and then the Austrians. Most tourists may only ever see the section of the wall closest to Verona's gorgeous Arena and, due to the obscurity of its other sections, may not even realise there's so much more.  Travellers who wish to escape the afternoon crowds in the bustling historical centre can enjoy a 2 hour walk along the wall on the green slopes in the hills skirting the city. This walk always gives me the sensation of walking back in time through a medieval setting well removed from modern day Verona. 

Departing from the Ponte Nuovo bridge, cross to the opposite side of the river and head towards the more attractive Ponte Pietro. Turn left at Via S. Chiara and continue up until you reach Via Gio in Valle where you make a left turn and then right into a cobbled street called Vicolo Scala Santa. Here you will immediately feel the transformation from busy roads to peaceful cobbled laneways lined with colourful buildings. Take the steps at the end of the street towards the gated buildings situated at the top of the hill. Turn left to pass by the front of the building to a stony path to the left. Now you'll have the ancient wall on your right as you head up the rant her steep climb. Never fear, the climb is over and done with within minutes and the now grassy path simply arcs in a circular fashion along the wall. The stone wall has is lined with a variety of trees and at the right times of the year you'll share the space with butterflies, flowers and birds. Every now and then you'll see the holes in the wall used by archers and for other weaponry as time passed. Also at strategic points along the way are small towers and rooms that were used to contain supplies. Around half way there's a fork in the path and a picnic table nearby. On the weekend a group of locals may gather for a picnic there but during the week it's normally peaceful. In fact, on most occasions that I have walked this route, there's no one else in site. 

If you are short of time simply continue along the path that will eventually take you to the road. It's then a simple matter of following the road around its first bend and then taking the stairs that cut through the hill back down towards the township. You can't go wrong from here as you turn to your left to head back in the direction of the river where you'll come out close to Ponte Pietra. 

If you have an extra 30 minutes, I'd recommend turning left at the picnic table fork to divert off the path and head towards the end of the trail where it meets the road. Continue up the road now heading in a straight line in the direction of Verona's centre to the Castel San Pietro. Here you will be rewarded with panoramic views across Verona. The rich colours combine to create a wonderful painting and the green waters of the river in the foreground and rolling green hills in the backdrop complete the romantic setting. After enjoying the viewing for a while you can either take the stairs down that head past the ruins of the old Roman theatre and back to Ponte Pietra. This is the tourist route so the stairs will be busy. The more adventurous and interesting option is to return back to the picnic table where you diverted from the path and continue your peaceful walk along the wall.

Oh Romeo, Romeo!