Ligurian Food

Liguria is a narrow, long region hugging the coast from the French border. It's eastern tip touches Tuscany while Piedmont pushes it close to the sea. Its warm climate, calm seas and lush mountains make the cuisine a wonderful collaboration between food sourced from both land and sea. Some of the most unique flavours and gastronomic delights include:

Trofie with pesto

Pesto is a traditional food of Liguria and is made with the freshest of locally grown basil, pine nuts and olive oil with the addition of a touch of garlic and finely grated Parmesan cheese. The warm climate and fertile soil provides ongoing supply of fresh basil. Pine nuts are grown locally in the wild growing pine trees in the mountains above the coast. These ingredients are ground together with locally produced olive oil added. 

Trofie (pronounced "troff-ee-eh) is a thin pasta that has been curled around a fine stick and cut short. This pasta is the perfect vehicle for carrying the thick pesto sauce. A small serving in a bowl with fresh basil is the typical Ligurian mode of eating this first course for either lunch or dinner.

Fariniata

Farinata is a thin flat "bread" that is made by mixing chickpea flour (chickpeas are locally grown), water and olive oil and frying in a copper based pan. Often cheeses or anchovies are added for flavour. This now popular street food originated in Genoa but is enjoyed throughout Liguria, some other Italian regions and Coastal France. 

Focaccia 

Focaccia is a favourite Ligurian food. Flour, water, yeast and plenty of local olive oil is used to make focaccia which is eaten plain as a snack or to accompany meals. Various toppings including Rosemary, fresh tomatoes, olives, onions or pesto are often added making it the local equivalent to pizza.

Muscoli

Muscoli is the name given to mussels, otherwise known as 'cozze' in the rest of Italy. Muscoli are cultivated specifically in the region of La Spezia and Portovenere. They are very similar to standard mussels however, my experience with eating these beautiful sea fruits is that the actual mussels inside the shells are smaller. Traditionally steamed with water, white wine, and a touch of garlic and parsley, they are both sweet and salty, ticking 2 important taste categories. The cultivation of muscoli follows traditional methods which includes harvests in small areas of relatively shallow waters and manual methods of collection using small boats. The muscoli are monitored and cleaned to ensure an absence of bacteria and assurance of sustainability.

Seafood

The Tyrennean Sea, with its calm, warm waters provides an abundance of fish and seafood which are delivered to the shores on a daily basis. In Santa Margherita, the fishermen's catch is hastily stacked into crates twice daily and taken less than 50m to the fish market. A wide variety of white fish, anchovies, red prawns, clams and octopus are hauled in daily and are cooked simply by grilling, baking or frying in the lightest of batter. The busy fish market becomes frantic as customers almost chase the fishermen to their counters. Orders are shouted with plentiful gesturing. Hanging scales are loaded, prices are checked, the catch is wrapped and the cash is exchanged. I made this a happy and smelly routine, conscious of trying lesser known fish varieties as a supporter of the slow fish promotion which encourages choosing smaller fisheries using sustainable methods and consuming a broader variety of fish while avoiding endangered species. To me (pescartarian) nothing is better than eating the freshest of locally caught fish and seafood and sharing it with my hungry family. Of particular note is the 'gambero rosso' or red prawn from Santa Margherita. This relatively small, red prawn is sweet and delicate. A real treat!

Pandolce

One of my favourite Ligurian sweet treats is pandolce. This literally translates as 'sweet bread' and is a combination of a cake, cookie, bread, pastry treat.  Ranging in size from large cakes (often eaten at Christmas or Easter time) to bite size, they are loaded with currents, dried fruits and pine nuts. I enjoyed a hearty version in Riomaggiore on the Cinque Terre after a 4 hour hike from Portovenere and it was a wonderful and enjoyable way to refuel.

Liguria has so much more to offer on the culinary front and the broad cuisine is sure to satisfy all tastes. Fresh and simple food that honours both land and sea, preserves tradition and celebrates seasonality allows Liguria to maintain its important and unique culinary status.

Path of Infinity

Since the closure of most of the Sentiero Azzurro in the Cinque Terre, the alternative Sentiero Rosso has taken much more of my attention. Otherwise known as the high path, the route stretches from Portovenere to Levanto along the a Gulf of Poets and takes 12 hours to complete. I thought I'd tackle it in two stages, thinking I could shave at least a couple of hours from that estimation with my well-known fast walking! So I set off from Portovenere early to complete the route, diverting to the town of Riomnaggiore. 

This walk is for keen hikers who don't mind a bit of a climb and are confident with their footing and with heights. The route begins just off the main piazza of Portovenere, commencing with a steep climb up cobbled, rocky stairs behind Castello Doria where you can take a break to absorb the stunning views over the church of St Peter and along the coastal cliffs toward the summit of Muzzerone soaring above.

The path continues ever upwards but the stairs soon transform into nature's path of jagged rocks that need to clambered up and over, edging quite close to the cliff. What surprises me most about this first hour of the walk is that the path is precariously close to the cliff edge, at times less than a meter wide and often sloping sideways (you walk on quite a slant on sheer rock).  There's not another person in sight and all I can hear is the heaving of my breath as I suck warm air into my lungs, the tweet of birds and the wind in the grass. 

After a challenging ascent the path veers to the right, away from the coast and into pine forest to skirt a summit and take me past a still-functional marble quarry. There are massive chunks of black, grey and pink marble all being loaded onto a waiting truck. I head down a bit of road before re-entering bush and a path that again takes me a foot away from the cliff edge. I walk on a few meters on red marble, a precious and prized stone that can be seen in a wide streak all the way from the mountain top to the sea if you sail around by boat. I feel a little luxurious walking on this piece of prized earth as I skirt around the valley overlooking a castle and terraced vegetable gardens as I head toward the first village along the path, Campilgia. 

Having negotiated several patches of rocky terrain having no resemblance to a pathway, I finally arrive through pine forest to the village which has some unique and inviting qualities. Not only is it blessed with a beautiful view over the Tyrennean Sea, but it has a couple of small hotels, cafés and bars, and even a lovely, cheerful playground for children. I'm attracted to the little shop with the sign saying "Bar". It is a fruit, veggie shop combined with coffee shop, bar and convenience store. So wonderful. Nearby is a tap with fresh running water to fill up your water bottles.

Heading straight ahead through the village I come across a sign indicating several options for pathways. I'm not convinced these are my preferences so I continue onwards. Views over the busy port of La Spezia can be seen to the right. On the outskirts of the village I see my sign indicating the path to Riomaggiore via Telegrafo following route number 1. I head up a path to soon re-enter Portovenere National Park. This is a special area of the park that has enjoyed extra attention from Park management as I notice it is suddenly extremely well maintained. The predominately alpine path is wide, well cleared and has, running along side it, a Palestra delle Verde, a 'green gym' with several fitness stations. These stations are quite imaginative and some are challenging. I'm a little tired after 2 hours of challenging hiking to try many but I do pause to have fun with a couple. Thankful that no one is around to witness my clumsiness I give up after a few moments. 

This stretch of national park is peaceful, shady and provides views across the sparkling water through gaps of shrubs and grass. The intersection brings you out at Telegrafo, not well sign posted but easy to recognise since it's an intersection with many signs indicating various pathway options moving forward. I spot my required pathway (number 3) straight away. This path will take me back along the seaside cliff and around a couple a valleys then down to Riomaggiore within 1r 15 minutes. 

This section of the path is extremely beautiful. It traverses the cliff side without being too close to the edge. You walk through predominately grassland and small ferns which are the new growth springing as a result of bushfire that cleared much if this zone almost two years ago. The charred pine trees create an eery feeling and the smattering of landslides is a reminder of the fragility of this land. However, the views across the water and along the coast are divine. 

Soon I walk through olive groves and vineyards. I turn a bend that swings me past a little cottage and the path heads through a small orchard, gorgeous. The path winds it's way around the valley and towards the Sanctuario delle Madonna di Monte Nero. It's here that I start to see many walkers who've headed up from Riommagiore, many only walking up as far as the church.  Heading away from the church, the path takes you away from the coast as it veers into the valley and then as it bends back toward the sea, the sharp descent begins. I feel for the hikers who started from Riomaggiore. It's without doubt a challenging climb for them. For me, it's a long descent down toward the village. Soon I'm walking alongside a small stream that was once a large river that gave Riomaggiore it's name (the river was named Rio Maggiore) before the village was established. 

Riomaggiore is a colourful seaside village at the eastern end of the Cinque Terre. It's a very steep village, now crowded with tourists who reach this destination by either ferry or train. Tourist buses also service the village. The steep streets are lined with food vendors, cafés and souvenir stores. I buy some focaccia, a scoop of seafood salad and a fruit filled pandolce to enjoy for lunch sitting on the sea edge amongst the moored fishing boats. Teenagers are jumping off jagged rocks into the sea while tourists file in all directions to explore the town.

The walk is pretty well sign posted with red and white CAI signs as well as following paths labelled 1 then 3. It takes about 3.5-4hours and is a wonderful journey. Time for a gelato! 

Palmaria, Portovenere National Park

Palmaria Island is located off Portovenere and again is a UNESCO world heritage site. A 5 minute boat ride is all it takes to reach the port and 3 main privately owned beach sites can be chosen from. To use the stony beaches it's advisable to use a lounge for comfort but these come at a price usually from €8. Another absolutely worthwhile attraction of the island are it's walking trails. It is possible to walk the entire way around the island on an 8km trail through diverse paths that undulate and weave around the craggy coast line of the island. Marked by CAI as trail number 1, the path includes stony sections, sheer rock and red soil. Bird life is abundant and the late Spring flowers add a splash of purples, yellows and whites. 

The path hovers over grottos and deep rock crevices with the bluest of water glistening below. Along the way there is plenty of evidence of military bunkers and look outs that were used during World War II. A quarry on the southern side close to Pozzale was used for black marble and gold. The bird life, scurrying geckos, the odd goat and rabbit, along with the rugged environment and beautiful views immerse you in a wonderful natural environment. The path is also relatively peaceful with only a few fellow hikers passing by.

I am surprised at the challenging climbs of the trail and even more surprised at the signage labelling the extremely steep descent from the summit of the small mountain that forms the island (it's approximately 500m in altitude) as 'difficult'. This is never an exaggeration on Italian paths so I feel a little nervous as I eye the loose rock and thick ropes affording support to the side if the trail. Forward thinking is required to ensure safe footing but the breathtaking views back to Portovenere with it's colourful tower houses, busy ports and ancient fort and churches are certainly worth all the effort. The full journey takes between 2.5-3 hours and so a swim in the the cool shallow waters on the beach front at the end is a great way to end your treat. 

Trekking in Portovenere and Cinque Terre National Park

The Cinque Terre has attracted large numbers of tourists for centuries. Stretched out in the southern end of Liguria, within UNESCO Workd Heritage National Park, the five colourful villages vertically arranged and linked by ancient pathways are simply stunning. I was lucky enough to walk the full Sentiero Azzuro, blue path, that links he 5 villages around 4 years ago. Since that time, devasting floods and landslides have caused catastrophic damage to some of the villages and several sections of the path. As a result, at the moment only one stretch of the pathway is accessible and open to the public. This is the section between Vernazza and Monterosso. The trek takes under 2 hours and the steep climbs are rewarded by spectacular views over the two villages, valleys and the Tyrennian Sea. 

Heading off with my 11year old daughter, feet clad in hiking shoes, we commenced our walk from Vernazza after disembarking the ferry from Portovenere. The village of Vernazza is set back on a slight angle so from the sea does not look overly impressive. However, when entering from the harbour a colourful splash of pinks, yellows, peaches and reds surrounds you. Houses and buildings are painted in the strict colour palette with compulsory dark green shutters creating a unique and uniform effect. Little artisan stores line the main streets and we are directed toward a pharmacy facing a pizzeria where the path of the trek begins. 

 

Soon, we are climbing a steep ascent exiting the village and heading ever upwards on the cliff face. The day is hot, over 30 degrees. Beads if sweat soon form salty streams running from my forehead and my top is soaked. Ruby's looking cherry-faced and tired panting as she climbs but I try reassuring her that we are nearly there. I'm panting too, it's a tough ascent. It turns out that the climb takes a good 30 minutes of steep, rocky and dusty narrow pathway. We stop regularly to chug water and once the path levels the overhanging trees provide relief from the heat. During the climb and throughout the entire walk the view in all directions is simply a treat. Vernazza's domed church and stone watch towers provide a beautiful skyline looking from above. 

The path is busy with tourists from all over the world. I hear French, German, American and British accents along the way. At one point I pass a couple and overhear an American girl panicking about running out of water. I hand her my half-full bottle as I have another one in my backpack that I know is sufficient for Ruby and I. She's thankful and I'm hopeful she enjoyed the hike more without the stress.

The path continues with some ups and downs before it finally descends into Monterosso. Monterosso is the largest of the five villages and has a fun, resort-like feel. Bright umbrellas turn the beachfront into a landscape of orange, red, green and blue. The calm waters provide clear views of the sealife below and reflections of the surrounding mountains. After a simple lunch of seafood salad we head to one of the sections of free beach for a swim and hire stand up paddle boards for an hour. A truly magical way to spend a hot summer's day.

The walk can be completed from either end with the villages accessible by both ferry and train. There is a €7.50 fee to walk the path. This contributes to the maintenance and repairs of the pathway.