One of my favourite hikes in Italy is the hike from the Monte Baldo cable car station to Cima Pozette, 2253m above Lake Garda. The hike is relatively easy with a climb of around 400m and a duration of approximately 2hours and 45 minutes but the terrain is stone and rock, narrow and exposed. What makes this hike unforgettable, is the stunning 360 degree views every step of the way.
To access the hike, you'll need to travel towards the northern end of the lake to the town of Malcesine. From there, you take 2 cable cars, the second of which rotates in a clockwise direction ensuring all passengers benefit from the stunning views over the lake. The cable car journey takes approximately 20 minutes and the first one in the summer season departs soon after 8am. Although there are seasonal variations, the cable cars depart every 30 minutes but by mid to late morning, when the first full ferries and coaches arrive, the queues can snake diown 2-3 levels of wide stairways and out the entrance, creating a 30minute plus wait. So you're best to arrive between 8-9am for a fuss-free start to your day.
Upon entering the cable car you'll soon be surrounded by predominately the sounds of German tourists who flurry to Lake Garda throughout the year. Standing shoulder to shoulder and clutching at a hanging hand strap for support, you feel a little like a packed sardine but the journey is pleasant enough as you soar at relatively high speed, ears popping regularly, to reach the 1800m altitude.
Upon exiting at Monte Baldo you immediately notice the cooler temperatures and thinner air. It's often 5-10 degrees cooler than the lakeside temperature and the wind chill factor can make it feel colder. It's wise to pack a long sleeve top or light wind jacket even in the Summer. The last time I visited, it was almost 30 degrees lake side and it felt 10-15 degrees in the harsh winds on the summit, especially when cloud covered the sun. Be prepared for changes in weather conditions, as these are renowned for occurring quickly and without too much warning. There are bathrooms and refreshments at the Monte Baldo cable car station that you can make use of to set yourself up for a pleasant and comfortable start to the day.
Once set, I'd recommend first heading left from the station up hill and through an archway, past the toboggan run, restaurant, donkeys and alpacas along a goat track that takes you to a wonderful look out point over the northern end of Lake Garda. Along the way you may see dare devil para gliders launching themselves off the cliff towards the lake and beige and tan coloured cows with copper bells hanging fom their thick necks. The clanging of the bells and the whistling wind in your ears, along with the spectacular views over the alps and valleys will have you wanting to sing "the hills are alive ....".
The view from the lookout and throughout the walk are stunning. The return detour to the lookout takes around 45minutes to an hour so make sure you still have plenty of time to complete the main walk. The biggest factor most people need to consider is return transport, being the cable cars and the ferries. The last ferry servicing the southern end of the lake including Garda and Sirmione is at around 5:30pm so you'd be looking at a 4pm cable car to ensure your connection can be made. Therefore, you'd be aiming to start the main hike no later than 1pm.
The hike starts by heading to the right from the cable car station first down a gravelly path past Ristorante Baia towards a CAI red and white signpost indicating path 651 to Cima Pozzette. The pathway is well way marked throughout with red and white markers. The slowly ascending pathway ranges from grass to goat track to gravel and rock. Soon you enter conservation forest and it's important to observe the rules including keeping to the track, not littering and not collecting or removing objects of any kind. This pristine mountain is a very popular tourist attraction and it would be sad to see it damaged or treated without respect. You'll notice sprinklings of wild flowers from May to October and hear to fluttering of small birds as they fossick in the low lying bushes and pines.
At times the path is very narrow and you need to watch your footing choosing larger rocks as opposed to loose, sliding gravel. Often the path narrows so that hikers need to give way to each other if approaching from different directions. Heading further along the path you'll see the white stones stacked into piles as you enter low lying pine forest where sometimes it's necessary to duck under the low branches covered with pointy pine needles.
As the path clears, beautiful views down to the lake accompany your every step. The path begins to incline and become more and more rocky and narrow. Soon you reach a sign pointing upwards towards Pozette. The last stretch from here looks a bit daunting. The rock covered mountain top ahead has no resemblance to a walking path but the red and white painted markers on the rocks indicate this is the designated route. After an additional 20 minutes of clambering up, over and between rocks you'll have the first view of the cross positioned on the summit. A further short and easy incline is all that's needed to complete the journey to the summit of Pozette where the breath taking views in all directions reward you for you efforts and re-energise you for the return trek.
Although the return route is all down hill, it's more difficult and requires more concentration due to the slippery (gravelly) and at times unstable surfaces. Fatigue, thirst, or a lack of concentration can result in a fall so stay attentive and choose your footing wisely. Be careful to always follow the 651 route as otherwise you might veer onto older tracks that, although will all eventually arrive back at the cable car station, have much rougher, rockier and steep terrain. These are situated more to the left of the chair lifts running toward the cable car station at the base of the valley.
Upon your return, enjoy a coffee or aperitivo at one of the restaurant bar tables at Ristorante Baia before returning to Malcesine on the cable cars.
Malcesine is a medieval village on the lake front and is one of the most picturesque towns on the lake. There are plentiful shops, cafés, restaurants, Gelaterias, and medieval ruins and castles to explore. A couple of hours of exploration within the village, or a relaxing drink by the water's edge, is the perfect way to finish a wonderful day.
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