Valle Delle Ferriere Upper Trail
Starting with a long flight up limestone stairs from the historic village of Minuta, the path traverses the cliff edge through pine forest, ferns, chestnut trees and grasslands. Up to 4 streams need to be crossed with rainfall dictating the width, and sometimes even the presence, of streams. Waterfalls cascade through crevices and rocks need to be clambered over. The 4 hour trek undulates frequently but is not too strenuous. Throughout the journey you are gifted wonderful views over the valleys and above Ravello, Amalfi and Pogerola. Encounters with reptiles especially tiny lizards are frequent and you may even pass by herds of goats or mules with their accompanying dogs. A refreshment stop at the bar overlooking the sea while chatting to the elderly owner may have him switching on romantic Italian tunes while you sip your coffee. The final descent into Amalfi soon has you back mingling with the crowds.
BEST VIEWS
Sentiero degli Dei, Path of the Gods
This is one of the most well trodden hikes on the Amalfi Coast. It's no wonder, the views over the sea showcase the Amalfi Coastline in all its splendour. The panorama stretches to the Island of Capri and over the coastal villages of Furore, Praiano and finally, the gorgeous and colourful Positano. Commencing high in the mountains in the town of Bomerano, the dirt and rocky path provides a 3 hour journey, traversing the valleys amongst diverse forest. Often the track skirts the tree tops and weaves up and over rock boulders. Following the red and white markers keeps walkers on track while tables and chairs are positioned at strategic positions along the way, inviting you to prolong the enjoyment. Once the town of Nocelle is reached, an unforgiving 1800 steps winding steeply to the coastal road just outside of Positano will have your knees vibrating long after the walk is done. Finishing with a 10 minute roadside walk into the town centre, a rewarding lemon granita from the street stall, followed by a relaxing shop, rounds off a perfect day!
MOST TRANQUIL
Valle Dei Mulini
The overcrowded streets of Amalfi can soon be left behind with this 2 hour walk into the historic and peaceful Valley of the Mills. In the days of Amalfi's thriving paper making industry, the stream beds were dotted with mills that used the powerful flowing waters of the river from the surrounding mountains. A combination of massive floods destroying many of the mills and the paper industry collapsing into the hands of China lead to the demise of the industry. However, many of the remains of mills are left untouched with trees and vines simply growing through and over them. The walk commences with a climb up mule stairs behind the houses of Amalfi and into the valley. The lower slopes and valley floor are covered with lemon farms and a diverse range of fruit and vegetable plots. The green of the lemon trees is contrasted by the browns, greys and whites of the soaring limestone cliffs. You pass by strong men lugging crates of lemons on their heads at harvest time, or mules and goats on their daily circuits. You climb continuously upwards but not too steeply, about 300m in altitude. The path transforms into a mixture of dirt, sand and rock as it reaches the stream. Immediately you are surrounded by an array of shady trees and the cold spring waters cools the air, even on the hottest of days. Soon small rapids and powerful waterfalls are passed. The roaring waterfalls, flowing streams and distant rooster are your only sounds. The journey into the point of the valley takes you to riverside beds with crystal clear waters and rocks to rest on. The return journey is even more tranquil. All your effort is done as you descend slowly back to bustling Amalfi.
BEST LOOK OUT POINT
Torre Dello Zirro
If you glance up from the waterfront to the hills above Amalfi an ancient circular watchtower stands out on the rocky ridge. There are many such towers along the coast, constructed to keep watch of the coastline for approaching enemies. As legend has it, after the Duke of Amalfi died, his wife was accused of having an affair and the Duke's brothers locked her and her children away inside the tower where they were later murdered. Local residents view the tower with shame and a little fear and rarely visit it. However, the belvedere above the tower provides spectacular views literally above Atrani on one side, and Amalfi on the other. In the late afternoon sunlight, the water sparkles with a deep turquoise contrasting against the white and terracotta cluster of buildings that make up the two villages. The walk can be done as either an extension of the Ravello to Amalfi walk, or a diversion from the Valley of the Mills up to Pontone and then Torre Dello Zirro. From Pontone it is about a one hour return trip firstly through the Borgo of Pontone and then up a steep zig zag of steps before arriving at the alpine covered out-crop. From here, 4 pathways take you to different levels with various views, but the formal view point is from the second lowest path. I often think that this would be the perfect place for a proposal with the stunning and romantic views over the sea.
The return route presents three options. The first option is to take the 25min descent on steep stairs to Amalfi while the second alternative is to return back through the Valley of the Mills (1.5 hours). The third option is to head down a more rickety set of stairs towards Atrani through the Valle delle Dragone. This is a pretty route showing a different side of Atrani and will see you back in the rabbit warren streets of Atrani in 1.5 hours and Amalfi in 2 hours.
BEST JOURNEY/ MOST HISTORIC
Ravello to Amalfi
Ravello is a peaceful town high above the coastline above Minori, Atrani and Amalfi with spectacular far-reaching views beyond Salerno and across the valleys. It's Roman gardens of Villa Cimbrone with its white statue-lined belvedere are a must-do photo opportunity. Many of the pathways between Ravello and the coastal villages require steep knee grinding stair ascents or descents. However, a far more interesting passage takes you around the valley through the most ancient Amalfi Coast town of Scala and then down winding pathways to Minuta, Pontone and then the spectacular Valley of the Mills. This 3-4 hour trek will see you walking past the ruins of ancient ceramic kilns, into and out of a valley over a river bed, through and passed animal filled farms, through ancient villages, down the longest flight of stairs on the Amalfi coast, through town piazzas with spring water fountains and finally along the shady and picturesque river, with its remains of iron and paper mills, to Amalfi.
No comments:
Post a Comment