During my stay in Bergamo I set about exploring all the pathways and routes through the surrounding hills and valleys from the Citta Alta. These lead me down quiet roads, ancient stairways and forest pathways. All were lovely, peaceful and picturesque but after a couple of weeks in the gorgeous historical City, I mentioned to Elena, my Italian friend, tour colleague and Italian teacher, that I was very keen to do some trekking in the mountains and valleys surrounding her city of Bergamo, known as the Orobie Mountains. She quickly linked me up with Pier who is a passionate mountaineer and hiker, frequenting the sentieri almost every weekend of the year. He and his wife Cinzia and another Italian couple, Antoinetta and Danilo were planning a trek that coming weekend and he kindly offered me the last seat in his car. As all this was organised between my friend and Pier over the phone, I was only fed paper-thin information, "a tranquil mountain hike of about 4 hours, bring a panino, wind jacket and hat. We will leave at 8am and you'll be back around 4pm". That's it!
When I met the group the morning of the hike they were lively and friendly but none could speak a word of English. Luckily my Italian was enough to get me through and allow me to join in on the conversations throughout the day. Pier quickly informed me that the hike would include an elevation (climb) of around 1000m. That's higher than most of our mountains in Australia! I wasn't sure if he was joking or not as he followed this comment with a couple of jokes about watching out for vipers and mountain lions. I laughed along saying it's nothing compared to our snakes, but quietly hoping it was all a joke.
The car was filled with lively conversation as we pulled into a road side cafe called "little Bar" for a quick sugar-filled espresso before continuing on to the car park where everyone disembarked to don their hiking boots and grab there poles. Pier asked if I had 'batoncini' (poles) and I told him I didn't. He looked a little hesitant so I hoped once again I wasn't underprepared. Off we set through the charming hillside village of Brumano already at 800m altitude. The village was surrounded by 360 degrees of mountains and prealps with varying silhouettes from smooth grass plains to jagged knife-blade rocky peaks. Pier pointed out a few peaks, informing me that he'd walked along the entire length of one of the wide mountain ranges many times before and that his goal was to climb every peak of the Orobie. A mighty effort!
Following the red, white and yellow painted signs (generally found on the curb side, the occasional rock or tree and even on the stone facade of ancient houses along the track) Pier lead us confidently through a few tricky turns amongst the flower filled grassy fields before the signage indicated the number '13' along with information stating Rifigio Monzesi, our first stop, was 1.5 hours away.
Soon we entered forest filled with chestnut, ash and beech trees with soft leaf-covered pathways and a beautiful display of Spring flowers. The path had a steady incline with a sprinkling of stairs and many winding bends. With Pier at the lead we were left to enjoy the journey through picturesque mountain and forest scenes. After 20minutes of walking, we came across a second sign indicating the same Rifugio still 1.5 hours away. We laughed and agreed it was always the way (very Italian). The Rifugio was only built a year ago and had the fresh smell of pine oozing from its walls. After a bathroom stop we continued along the path until the numbering switched from 13 to 17. At this point the path becomes decidedly more steep and rocky. We were in higher altitude here and I glimpsed patches of snow ahead and more exposed pale grey rock.
The steep rocky section ahead was filled with hikers, all locals enjoying their long weekend (the next day being a public holiday). There was not a tourist in sight (okay, apart from me!) indicating that these pathways are lesser known on the tourist track around the lakes. We scrambled our way up the loose rocky path and then froze as a hiker called out "attenzione" as a rock tumbled down the pathway bouncing towards the embankment. Thankfully it bounded away from the path and all was safe to continue. Soon a thin layer of snow covered our pathway and I tentatively followed Pier's steps as we traversed the slippery path to the dry land beyond. The steep rocky mountain crop had several pathways leading to the summit. Groups of hikers were scrambling in all directions but all travelling up towards the cross on the summit. About 20m below the summit is Rufugio Azzoni with its pink painted facade. Above the hut is a rocky peak with the large iron cross providing a landmark. We waited at the Rifugio for everyone to arrive together so that we could reach the summit as a group. Hikers were munching on panini, sitting on any available surface and soaking in the view. The 15 minute wait on the windy mountain side quickly cooled my body temperature. Only minutes ago I had been sweating in my t-shirt but soon I was reaching for my long sleeve top and wind jacket for warmth. Even then I was shivering as the wind blew off the snowy hills towards us. When the group finally convened Pier announced that he wanted me to lead the way so I could be first to reach the summit. This was such a generous gesture and I excitedly strode up the last stretch to the concreted platform below the cross. Here we could see the township of Lecco, 1875m below. The waters of Lake Como wove around the valleys and the surrounding mountains and alps all made a breath-taking panorama. Unfortunately low-lying cloud veiled the view below but within 20mins cloud blew across the summit and completely shrouded the view. I was thankful we arrived in time to witness the view before it was taken away. After some snapshots and group photos Pier, Cinzia & I went in search for a nice picnic spot while Antoinette and Danilo went inside the Rifugio to grab a panino. Pier, the adventurer, took a more challenging route and soon was clinging to a rocky cliff to traverse to a quieter site. Cinzia followed without hesitation and I looked on with trepidation. Pier pointed out the foot and hand holds while I tried to block out the sheer drop below. All this for a picnic spot! But, after a few steps it was all over and we had a lovely position to enjoy our lunch. Antoinette and Danilo approached from the ordinary path route, panini in hand to join us. Panini devoured and chocolate munched we were ready for our 2 hour descent.
Pier was extremely light footed as he sped down the pathway while the rest of the group stayed within eye-shot with Cinzia stopping frequently to admire the diverse flowers, recording each one with a photo. Upon reaching the starting point we all removed our mud-covered hiking shoes and re-filled our water bottles with fresh spring water from the town's fountain. I felt refreshed and completely thankful for such a wonderful hike in such warm, friendly and fun company. I look forward to exploring these mountain ranges more as I know there's so much more to discover!
Facts:
Destination: Cima del Resegone, Monte Serrada: Rifugio Luigi Azzoni
Where: Province of Lecco
Altitude: 1875m
What: Prealpe Lombardy
From Brumano (Valle Imagna) the hike takes 2.5 hours to arrive, 2 hours to return with a climb if 900mt
Path 13 and 17 (571)
Views: 360 degree view of Appinines, Maritime Alps, monviso, monterosa, cervino, oberland Bernese, pizzo badile, pizzo bernina, pizzo di coca, mount adamello, Lecco, pre alpine Como,
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