Trekking in Portovenere and Cinque Terre National Park

The Cinque Terre has attracted large numbers of tourists for centuries. Stretched out in the southern end of Liguria, within UNESCO Workd Heritage National Park, the five colourful villages vertically arranged and linked by ancient pathways are simply stunning. I was lucky enough to walk the full Sentiero Azzuro, blue path, that links he 5 villages around 4 years ago. Since that time, devasting floods and landslides have caused catastrophic damage to some of the villages and several sections of the path. As a result, at the moment only one stretch of the pathway is accessible and open to the public. This is the section between Vernazza and Monterosso. The trek takes under 2 hours and the steep climbs are rewarded by spectacular views over the two villages, valleys and the Tyrennian Sea. 

Heading off with my 11year old daughter, feet clad in hiking shoes, we commenced our walk from Vernazza after disembarking the ferry from Portovenere. The village of Vernazza is set back on a slight angle so from the sea does not look overly impressive. However, when entering from the harbour a colourful splash of pinks, yellows, peaches and reds surrounds you. Houses and buildings are painted in the strict colour palette with compulsory dark green shutters creating a unique and uniform effect. Little artisan stores line the main streets and we are directed toward a pharmacy facing a pizzeria where the path of the trek begins. 

 

Soon, we are climbing a steep ascent exiting the village and heading ever upwards on the cliff face. The day is hot, over 30 degrees. Beads if sweat soon form salty streams running from my forehead and my top is soaked. Ruby's looking cherry-faced and tired panting as she climbs but I try reassuring her that we are nearly there. I'm panting too, it's a tough ascent. It turns out that the climb takes a good 30 minutes of steep, rocky and dusty narrow pathway. We stop regularly to chug water and once the path levels the overhanging trees provide relief from the heat. During the climb and throughout the entire walk the view in all directions is simply a treat. Vernazza's domed church and stone watch towers provide a beautiful skyline looking from above. 

The path is busy with tourists from all over the world. I hear French, German, American and British accents along the way. At one point I pass a couple and overhear an American girl panicking about running out of water. I hand her my half-full bottle as I have another one in my backpack that I know is sufficient for Ruby and I. She's thankful and I'm hopeful she enjoyed the hike more without the stress.

The path continues with some ups and downs before it finally descends into Monterosso. Monterosso is the largest of the five villages and has a fun, resort-like feel. Bright umbrellas turn the beachfront into a landscape of orange, red, green and blue. The calm waters provide clear views of the sealife below and reflections of the surrounding mountains. After a simple lunch of seafood salad we head to one of the sections of free beach for a swim and hire stand up paddle boards for an hour. A truly magical way to spend a hot summer's day.

The walk can be completed from either end with the villages accessible by both ferry and train. There is a €7.50 fee to walk the path. This contributes to the maintenance and repairs of the pathway.