This walk is for keen hikers who don't mind a bit of a climb and are confident with their footing and with heights. The route begins just off the main piazza of Portovenere, commencing with a steep climb up cobbled, rocky stairs behind Castello Doria where you can take a break to absorb the stunning views over the church of St Peter and along the coastal cliffs toward the summit of Muzzerone soaring above.
The path continues ever upwards but the stairs soon transform into nature's path of jagged rocks that need to clambered up and over, edging quite close to the cliff. What surprises me most about this first hour of the walk is that the path is precariously close to the cliff edge, at times less than a meter wide and often sloping sideways (you walk on quite a slant on sheer rock). There's not another person in sight and all I can hear is the heaving of my breath as I suck warm air into my lungs, the tweet of birds and the wind in the grass.
After a challenging ascent the path veers to the right, away from the coast and into pine forest to skirt a summit and take me past a still-functional marble quarry. There are massive chunks of black, grey and pink marble all being loaded onto a waiting truck. I head down a bit of road before re-entering bush and a path that again takes me a foot away from the cliff edge. I walk on a few meters on red marble, a precious and prized stone that can be seen in a wide streak all the way from the mountain top to the sea if you sail around by boat. I feel a little luxurious walking on this piece of prized earth as I skirt around the valley overlooking a castle and terraced vegetable gardens as I head toward the first village along the path, Campilgia.
Having negotiated several patches of rocky terrain having no resemblance to a pathway, I finally arrive through pine forest to the village which has some unique and inviting qualities. Not only is it blessed with a beautiful view over the Tyrennean Sea, but it has a couple of small hotels, cafés and bars, and even a lovely, cheerful playground for children. I'm attracted to the little shop with the sign saying "Bar". It is a fruit, veggie shop combined with coffee shop, bar and convenience store. So wonderful. Nearby is a tap with fresh running water to fill up your water bottles.
Heading straight ahead through the village I come across a sign indicating several options for pathways. I'm not convinced these are my preferences so I continue onwards. Views over the busy port of La Spezia can be seen to the right. On the outskirts of the village I see my sign indicating the path to Riomaggiore via Telegrafo following route number 1. I head up a path to soon re-enter Portovenere National Park. This is a special area of the park that has enjoyed extra attention from Park management as I notice it is suddenly extremely well maintained. The predominately alpine path is wide, well cleared and has, running along side it, a Palestra delle Verde, a 'green gym' with several fitness stations. These stations are quite imaginative and some are challenging. I'm a little tired after 2 hours of challenging hiking to try many but I do pause to have fun with a couple. Thankful that no one is around to witness my clumsiness I give up after a few moments.
This stretch of national park is peaceful, shady and provides views across the sparkling water through gaps of shrubs and grass. The intersection brings you out at Telegrafo, not well sign posted but easy to recognise since it's an intersection with many signs indicating various pathway options moving forward. I spot my required pathway (number 3) straight away. This path will take me back along the seaside cliff and around a couple a valleys then down to Riomaggiore within 1r 15 minutes.
This section of the path is extremely beautiful. It traverses the cliff side without being too close to the edge. You walk through predominately grassland and small ferns which are the new growth springing as a result of bushfire that cleared much if this zone almost two years ago. The charred pine trees create an eery feeling and the smattering of landslides is a reminder of the fragility of this land. However, the views across the water and along the coast are divine.
Soon I walk through olive groves and vineyards. I turn a bend that swings me past a little cottage and the path heads through a small orchard, gorgeous. The path winds it's way around the valley and towards the Sanctuario delle Madonna di Monte Nero. It's here that I start to see many walkers who've headed up from Riommagiore, many only walking up as far as the church. Heading away from the church, the path takes you away from the coast as it veers into the valley and then as it bends back toward the sea, the sharp descent begins. I feel for the hikers who started from Riomaggiore. It's without doubt a challenging climb for them. For me, it's a long descent down toward the village. Soon I'm walking alongside a small stream that was once a large river that gave Riomaggiore it's name (the river was named Rio Maggiore) before the village was established.
Riomaggiore is a colourful seaside village at the eastern end of the Cinque Terre. It's a very steep village, now crowded with tourists who reach this destination by either ferry or train. Tourist buses also service the village. The steep streets are lined with food vendors, cafés and souvenir stores. I buy some focaccia, a scoop of seafood salad and a fruit filled pandolce to enjoy for lunch sitting on the sea edge amongst the moored fishing boats. Teenagers are jumping off jagged rocks into the sea while tourists file in all directions to explore the town.
The walk is pretty well sign posted with red and white CAI signs as well as following paths labelled 1 then 3. It takes about 3.5-4hours and is a wonderful journey. Time for a gelato!
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